Rock Climbing Techniques – Life Balance
One morning I received an email from a rock climber called John, who was one of the original models for my eBook on climbing improvement. He noted that he’d recently availed himself of perhaps the ultimate aid in rock climbing improvement. As he tersely noted, “I’ve retired.”
A little while before, two rock climbers I know, both retired and with no financial worries, climbed F7c+/8a (i.e. 5.13a/b) at 59. Impressive? Absolutely. But, for the 35 year manager, working a 60 hour week, with a mega-mortgage, a partner and three kids, it may be impossible to climb 5.12, 5.11 or even 5.10.
The great US rock climber Robyn Erbesfield noted that, when she was running a cleaning business (it might have been called ‘Dustbusters’), she was only climbing 5.11. Once she began climbing full-time, it went up to 5.14 and she became world champion. Undoubtedly she was strong-willed and focused.
But could she have climbed 5.14 while running her cleaning business? Possible – but unlikely.
It’s temptingly easy to become obsessive about rock climbing. Many people do. But it’s usually a mistake. Obsession can tilt a life/climbing balance into a no-life/climbing imbalance. Obsession can isolate climbers from friends and family. And what if there is an injury and someone has to stop climbing?
Obviously, for professionals, climbing is both vocation and avocation. But, for the rest of us, climbing is only one domain of our lives – albeit a cherished domain. It must co-exist with the other domains. That doesn’t means that we can’t improve. But it may mean that improvement isn’t on the same scale as if we were climbing full-time (when we might get bored with it?)
I believe that climbers – even professional ones – benefit from having more than climbing in their lives. I believe that climbing should enrich your life and that the presence of other activities in your life should enrich your climbing. For one person, F7a/5.11d at 40 may be as great a personal achievement as F8a/5.13b at 60. For me, personal achievement and personal pleasure is what climbing is all about. And, for that, my life needs to be in balance.
Michael (Mick) Ward has been climbing since 1967. Aged 56, he still climbs at around 5.12 or F7b+. He has made many First Ascents and written for many climbing magazines. He’s still aiming to improve.